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Air lies over the ocean in layers. The surface of the ocean exerts a frictional drag on the bottom layer of wind. The frictional drag is transmitted to the layers above. Different layers have different frictional drags. This makes the layers to move at different speeds. The air tumbles forward in a circular motion. The motion causes the surface of the water to take the form of a wave. Wind presses on the back of the wave and makes it steeper. The back of the wave tumbles forward but it moves back later slowing the movement of the front part of the wave. The wave now becomes bigger.
Faimus answered the question on January 13, 2018 at 21:47
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